Digital Cameras for Bird Watching

Birds are notoriously difficult to great photos of. For avid bird watchers, are digital birding cameras the way to go?

Some photographers think so. Birds make difficult subjects because they are often spotted from quite a distance. In order to get a good quality shot, a lens capable of zooming must be used. However, it can be difficult to get a very close shot that looks crisp and clear when birds are often in almost constant motion. Digital birding cameras must not only be compact, lightweight, and able to withstand the elements but they must be able to zoom in without distortion and have a very quick shutter rate to capture quality photographs.

SLR Digital

While a "point and shoot" camera will work well for capturing your children and household activities, it won't work for birding. If you are serious about capturing photographs of the birds you see, you will want to invest in one or more digital birding cameras that meet specific criteria. First, it is best to find a camera which is built to accept several different lenses. This will allow you to select the best lens for the type of photograph and subject you are photographing. Cameras should be well-built and as sturdy as possible. Digital cameras tend to be less durable than their film counterparts, but there are quality digital birding cameras which will hold up in outdoor conditions. While you want to make sure your camera is tough, size is also a consideration. The best digital birding camera is one that combines durability and compactness. In fact, many quality cameras are small enough to fit in the pocket of your pants or vest.

Digital Cameras for Bird Watching

Make sure the digital birding camera you select has the ability to be set up to the specifications you need. You should be able to manually adjust the aperture. The aperture is basically where the lens opens. The diameter of the aperture is called the f-stop. You can become more familiar with these settings as you become more proficient with your camera, but you need to make sure that your camera allows you to set these yourself, rather than only having an "auto" setting. Adjusting these will allow the speed of your shutter to increase, which will let you take pictures much more quickly. You want the time that elapses from when you press the button to take the picture to when the camera actually takes it to be as small as possible. This will let you capture those birds who are in motion.

There are a few other things to look for when selecting a digital birding camera. Many cameras come with the ability to take rapid fire shots. You simply press the button once, and the camera will take multiple shots, one after the other. With a little practice, you can capture beautiful motion studies this way. Being able to adjust light settings is also crucial as you will not always be working in direct sunlight.

Although it may seem like common sense, perhaps the most important advice given to someone new to digital birding cameras is to be prepared. When going out into the field, bring plenty of spare batteries and memory cards. When you return home with your photographs, make sure you do a backup onto a disk or portable hard drive. Backing up your photographs is something that should be done each time you retrieve the photos from your camera so that you do not lose your shots if your computer should crash.

Digital Cameras for Bird Watching

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Top 3 Recommended Lenses For Your New Nikon D80 Digital SLR Camera

A new Nikon D80 body sitting beside a recently-opened box on your table is one of the most amazing sights to behold. You'd have to get one for yourself to understand the sensation.

A digital SLR camera on its own, however, is pretty much next to useless - you'd need to buy a lens (or two, three or more) in order to start taking photographs with it. The only problem is, there must be something like 1,013 lenses out there to choose from, at least, it starts feeling like it after you spend hours, if not days, thumbing through catalogs and spec sheets, browsing forums, reading debates and arguments over which lenses to buy (or not to buy) and getting advice from one friend too many, other enthusiasts and professionals in the field.

Nikon

All you'd really like to know now is, what are the best lenses for your Nikon D80?

Top 3 Recommended Lenses For Your New Nikon D80 Digital SLR Camera

I have some good news for you - if you're simply coming into SLR photography for personal pleasure, as a pastime or simply to get better pictures for sharing with your family and friends, I can quickly list down 3 lenses you can get right now without having to bust your bank account. From the selections below, simply select lens #1 only, #2 only, #3 only, #1 & #2 or #1 & #3 depending on your budget.

Nikon Lens #1 - The Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D AF lens. For 0 or less, there is no other lens out there that can give you sharper images for the money. You can buy 0 lenses which give marginally sharper pictures, but the 50mm f/1.8 lens has the highest sharpness / dollar-spent ratio in the industry. Its maximum 1.8 aperture also allows you to take great-looking portraits with a blurred background, the kind you see in some professional shots. It's small, it's light, it's great for taking photos in dimly-lit locations where flash is not allowed.

Nikon Lens #2 - The Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom lens. That was a mouthful, wasn't it? Yes, this is a zoom lens, unlike the 50mm f/1.8 mentioned above. Meaning you can take big-group shots in tight locations and include everybody into the picture, and it also allows you to go to 70mm for relatively tight portrait shots. Hunt around for 0-ish prices, and not a penny more, at your camera stores. Before the availability of Lens #3 that I'm about to mention, this glass was a firm favourite among many casual photographers who shoot travel and vacation images.

Nikon Lens #3 - The Nikkor 18-200mm F/3.5-5.6g IF-ED AF-S DX VR.This lens is so hot. How so? Well, it's hot enough to be out-of-stock at virtually all stores, but you can find one if you're a walk-in customer, and Nikon is bending backwards to ramp up production to meet demand. Why is it hot? Well, because it's the only lens on the market offering such a huge zoom range, with fast autofocus action and even a VR mechanism that helps you get steady shots without the use of flash. You'll appreciate how useful the VR is if you're in a museum that doesn't allow you to use flash and tripods - the new version of the VR technology Nikon made available on this lens allows you to eliminate handshake at ever slower shutter speeds which beats out the VR capability in more expensive, but older lenses. 0 is all you need to own this lens which you can take 90% of your shots with.

So, there you have it, the lowdown on which lens to get for your D80. Are there better lenses to be had? Of course, but you'll be paying through the nose for those, and the high prices can only be justified if you have special requirements in your photography pursuit, or if you're an enthusiast who cannot tolerate not having the absolute best lenses on hand. Be careful though, lusting over pricier and bigger lenses without knowing how to value or profit from them is only going to mean more money down the drain.

Good luck in your decision, and enjoy an amazing photographic experience with your new D80 and lenses!

Top 3 Recommended Lenses For Your New Nikon D80 Digital SLR Camera

If you liked my personal lens choices for the value-conscious Nikon D80 owner, go over to the Nikon D80 section of DPNotes.com for more Nikon D80 image samples, tips, tricks and techniques.

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Quick Guide to Hunting Scope Terms

Scopes and Hunting Optics - A Glossary of Terms

Scopes (rifle or shotgun)

Nikon

o Objective lens - The lens closest to the target.
o Ocular lens - The lens closes to your eye.
o Coatings - Some lenses are coated to prevent fogging or scratching.
o Field of View (FOV) - The amount of area seen through the scope at a specific distance, usually 100 yards.
o Windage adjustment - This is controlled by a knob on the top of the scope. Adjusts the right/left movement caused by the wind.
o Elevation adjustment - This is controlled by a knob on the side of the scope. Adjusts the up/down movement caused by involuntary motion.
o Bullet drop compensators (BDC) - This is an adjustment knob that is specific to your ammunition and caliber. The idea is to estimate the distance to the target and dial it into the BDC for an accurate impact.
o Reticle - This is what you see when you look through the scope. Common ones are dot, plain crosshair, duplex crosshair and mildot. Simply a question of preference, really.

Quick Guide to Hunting Scope Terms

NOTE: The windage and elevation knobs are known as MoA (Minutes of Adjustment).

Now in addition, you will see numbers like 3-9X40. The numbers in front of the "X" tell you that the target can be seen from 3 to 9 times as big as you see it with the naked eye. Example: At 100 yards, a deer looks to be 2 inches tall. In your scope at 3X power, it will appear to be 6 inches tall. At 9X power, that same target will appear 18 inches tall.
The second number is the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters.

Usually in the Midwestern states, a deer rifle is standardized at about 3-9X scope power. The average shot will be somewhat short at between 75 and 100 yards most of the time. In the western states like Montana or Colorado, where it is wide open country, a higher power is probably a good idea. In these areas, the average shot can be, realistically, from mountain to mountain at close to 1000 yards. A 25X power scope can be very handy here.

One more term you will want to understand is parallax. This is the tendency of the reticle to move off the target without moving the scope at all. When a scope is sighted in at a specific range, say 100 yards, this can happen at distances that are either shorter (25 yards) or much longer (250 yards) than that. Tough to explain, but it makes sense if you think about it.

Spotting scopes have somewhat less of a terminology set. Reticles, parallax, MOA adjustments and such are not a factor here as you are not targeting with them. These are normally manufactured at a higher power like 20-60X power (or even higher) and have a larger objective lens as well for a larger FOV. These are used in off seasons to find active game areas and to "glass" an area from a distance so as not to taint the area.

Range finders can be purchased to estimate the distance to a target instantly and quietly. This is done with a laser light, so no optical terms are needed. Usually the model number tells you how far the finder is accurate. A "400LH" model is used for up to 400 yards; a "1000X" model is accurate to 1000 yards.

Quick Guide to Hunting Scope Terms

[http://www.hunting-scopes-binoculars.com/index.php?cPath=1]

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Digital F Stops Explained

Anyone who has taken up photography will quickly run into two terms when they discuss or read about the correct way to expose a photograph, and those terms are aperture and f stops. While they sound different, they are actually the same exact thing.

What is aperture? It translates to the part of a lens that dictates how much light is let through to the camera's sensor - when it is wide open, lots of light gets through. When it is closed down, not much light gets through. The aperture is adjusted through the camera's f stops, which are discussed as decimals and work in a sort of inverted fashion. This means that the smaller the f stop number the larger the aperture, and vice versa.   Understanding f stops is important for making the proper exposure for the desired results.

SLR Digital

While there are charts and tables with f stops recommendations for a photographer to follow, it is best to understand the various needs of any type of photography and also what the right settings should be to get the desired results.   For example, it is vital that a photographer has an understanding of aperture and shutter speed, because they cannot work independently of one another. Aperture controls the depth of field in the photograph and it controls the amount of light on the sensor. This means that if the aperture is small, which also means a higher f stop, the shutter speed is going to have to be slower to allow in enough light.  

Digital F Stops Explained

There are no standard aperture and shutter speed settings that photographer can apply to specific photographic scenarios, and this is the reason that photographers will use two different approaches to photography in which the aperture is a significant factor. Let's use the example of a small statue set along a walkway. A photographer will want the subject to be the statue, and not the foreground or background. To limit the depth of field for the subject, they will open the aperture wide and cause the foreground and background to be blurry.

Where they might get confused is in the correct shutter speed settings, but this is easily overcome by the use of the aperture priority setting on the camera. This simply allows the user to dial in the desired f stop and the camera chooses the appropriate shutter speed. This is opposite of the shutter priority mode, which might not use true aperture and works directly in connection with the shutter settings.   What is true aperture? This is the mechanical setting that a camera, in any mode other than aperture priority, might use to create an image, but is often not the f stop displayed. For example, a camera in a landscape mode might indicate an f stop of 15, when in fact the camera is capable of only using an f/11 in the image.

Digital F Stops Explained

Amy Renfrey is the author of two major successful ebooks "Digital Photography Success" and "Advanced Digital Photography". She is a photographer and also teaches digital photography. Her educational ebooks takes the most complex photography terms and turns them into easy to understand language so that anyone, at any level of photography, can easily move to a semi-professional level of skill in just a very short time. She's photographed many things from famous musicians (Drummers for Prince and Anastasia) to weddings and portraits of babies. Amy also teaches photography online to her students which can be found at http://www.DigitalPhotographySuccess.com

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Building Footings and How to Construct Them

I will try to cover the basics for installation of footings for various structures. Since footings are the basic foundation piece of any building, it is important that they be designed by a licensed professional who will determine the proper size of the footing. The local soil conditions and the size of the building itself will determine the physical size of the footing needed, steel reinforcement needs, if any, and so on.

Footings no matter what is intended to sit upon them such as a wall or a post must always sit upon virgin, undisturbed earth. When excavating for your footing with machinery (backhoe or a powered post hole digger), it is recommended that you dig to within a few inches of the actual depth you need and finish the last few inches by hand. This will prevent you from accidentally disturbing the earth below the bottom of your footing forms.

Nikon

IF you over dig more than you need, place the footing on that level, DO NOT place loose material back into the hole. Your footing will settle when the weight of the concrete is placed on it causing the entire footing to settle.

Building Footings and How to Construct Them

If you have already placed your foundation wall or post on the footing, the result will be a cracked wall or a sunken post. This of course leaves you with a structurally unsound foundation wall or a deck post that sags in one corner.

Footing Types-

Footings can be formed using scrap lumber, paper tubes, and in some areas, concrete placement is allowed directly to the earth if the hole is shaped properly and the soil is solid enough to hold its shape. Check with your local building department to see if this is acceptable. When a structure such as a home or a garage is built, it is common practice to open excavate the footing trench to allow for the forming and pouring of the footings. If this is your type of project, any sound scrap lumber in the proper dimension of the footing for example 2 x 8, 2 x 10, plywood, etc. is acceptable. Since the footings will be buried, knots or holes in the lumber are no concern as appearance is not important.

Multiple paper preformed round footing tubes set in place. Diameter required will be shown on your drawings.

Paper tubes most commonly used for decks can be installed, poured and later the portion of the paper exposed above ground can be peeled away to provide a neat finished appearance. As long as the forms are strong enough to hold the weight of the concrete until it dries and the bracing is strong enough to make sure the form does not move during placement of the concrete, you are good to go. Footings are usually square but can be rectangular, round or just about any shape you can form. If you have had your footings designed by a professional, your drawings will show the shape and dimensions of the footings required. Look at your drawings carefully to determine the size and number of footings required. You will most likely want to pour them all at once to save money on the concrete orders. If you are hand mixing the concrete, you may pour them one at a time. A typical footing size may show as 2'-0" x 2'-0" x 10". That will be a 2 foot square footing that is 10 inches high or deep. The drawing will also show the elevation of the top of footing needed. Usually this shown on the footing as (-4'-0" or -8'-0") and so on. This means the TOP of the finished footing is four feet or eight feet below the finished floor of the building. You must set the first floor elevation and then deduct the four feet plus the 10 inches to get to the bottom of the new footing. Sadly it seems it is never a nice even amount like -4'. Due to dimensional lumber sizes, masonry sizes, the elevation will read more like (-4'-4 5/8"). It's OK. It's just a little math work. You want to get it right though. The top of the footing will setup the finished heights of the entire rest of your building. Get it right. Making adjustments later on, if possible at all, can be a nightmare. If you have obtained a building permit for your work, the building inspector will check to see if you have set the form the minimum depth below grade required in your area. They will NOT check your elevation for you. That is your responsibility. Your drawings will tell you all the information you need to properly install the footing in the right place and at the correct elevation.

REINFORCEMENT-

Many footings require reinforcement to strengthen the concrete. Installation is a simple task requiring only a pair of flat nosed pliers and a roll of light gauge tie wire. Your drawing will indicate the size and number of rebar pieces required. If it reads 4-#5 E.W. this means you need a total of 8 pieces of #5 rebar. Rebar is based on 1/8" increments in size so a #5 bar is 5/8" in diameter. #6 is 3/4" and so on. E.W. is shorthand for "each way", not East-West..

Large rebar mat installed in a footing.

Lay the bars on the flat ground using 4 of the bars in each direction perpendicular to each other to form a mat with 4 bars facing East-West and 4 bars facing North-South, one set on top of the other. For a 2' x 2' footing, your bars will be 1'-6" long each. Concrete protocol requires 3" of clearance from the end of each bar to the edge of the concrete. (that is just the way it is).

Rebar installed in lineal footings.

Using your tie wire, tie at least 50% of the cross points of the rebar. Just wrap the wire around both bars, twist with your pliers to make the tie tight and cut off the wire. Keeping the mat as square as possible, tie enough of the bar intersections to keep the bars from separating when the concrete is placed on top of them. Place the mat in your form keeping it in the bottom 1/3 of the footing height. (again protocol). This will give the maximum strength of your footing concrete. You do not want the rebar to touch either the forms or the earth. The concrete must completely envelop the bars. The best way to set the rebar mat is by hanging it in your form. Using two pieces of scrap lumber long enough to reach across your formwork, just place each piece of lumber about 1/3 of the way in from each side. Using your tie wire, simply hang the mat by wrapping tie wire around the bottom bars of the mat and then tying it to the support lumber. Make sure the mat is in the bottom 1/3 of the footing when you are done. Another method is to pour concrete into the form until it is 1/3 full, level out the concrete and then place the mat into the wet concrete. Complete filling the form until you are done. This is easier but if working alone it is just another task you have to do besides pouring the concrete. Vibrate your form by lightly tapping on the sides of the form with a hammer to consolidate the concrete and remove any air pockets. Finish off the top of the footing level with the forms and you may be done. If you are using round paper for tubes for a deck you may need to set an anchor bolt for the post hanger. If you are pouring a lineal footing for a wall,

Typical lineal footing forms in place.

You may have to install a "key" slot and rebar for the wall supports. Look for what is called a "section" on your drawings. If a key slot is required it will show it. This can be formed with a 2 x4 hammered down into the wet concrete and slid along to form the key slot. The concrete must be wet enough but not too wet or the slot will refill and not too dry or you won't be able to form it. A little hand work with a trowel will do a fine job.

Shows lineal footing with key formed to lock foundation wall in place.

Many foundation walls require what is called rebar dowels to be placed in the footing. You will want to have these dowels pre-bent and ready BEFORE YOU START POURING YOUR CONCRETE. A word of caution here as well. Splattered concrete can cause severe damage to your eyes and skin. Wear safety glasses or goggles whenever working with wet concrete. Any concrete you get on your skin should be washed off as quickly as possible to avoid skin burns.

Shows footings formed with rebar dowels tied into place before concrete is poured.

Dowels are typically bent in an L shape with a short horizontal leg and longer vertical leg. Your drawing will tell you how long these legs need to be. An example will read #5 dowels, 4'OC, 12"x36", I.F. This means you are to use # 5 rebar (5/8"), bent with the short leg 12" long and long leg 36" long. The vertical rears will go 2" in from the inside face of the wall.

They are to be placed 4' (48") on center starting from the centerline of the wall in one corner and proceeding around the foundation. When you come to a corner you will have more than likely, less than the 4' spacing so just add an extra bar at that point so each corner has a bar in the center.

Keep the bars as straight as possible. The advantage to installing them before the pour is you don't have to rush around trying to get them in before the concrete is too dry. The disadvantage is you have to finish the top of the concrete around each bar. "Wet sticking" rebar is sometimes frowned upon by architects if the concrete is moved around too much. If you carefully insert the rebar in the wet concrete making sure you have full contact with the concrete If is usually Ok. You cannot have holes around each bar when you are done. Layout and marking of the footing forms as to where the dowels go, is a must. You simply will not have the time nor likely the energy to do it after the concrete is poured. Once the concrete is hard, it is too late.

If the dowels are not installed your building inspector will reject the work.

Leveling of forms-Before you are ready to pour the concrete you must make sure your forms are level. Using a simple 3 point level (Nikon) and a ruler, you can with a helper take elevations every 5-10 feet or so and make sure all the forms are the same height. The footings may have a step or two in them which is determined by the grades on the site. Make sure each area is level within itself. If your foundation is masonry, the steps normally measure no more than 16" high. If the foundation is poured concrete, larger steps can be done. Ask your architect for the maximum step allowed. In any case, each step must be level to allow for a level surface for the foundation walls to sit upon. In warmer climates footings may sit almost on grade. In colder Northern climates, footings may be 4, 5 or even more feet below the ground to the bottom of the footings. This will protect against frost heave during very cold weather.

CLEANUP-

Often ignored is the cleanup portion of footing work. It is required and foolish not to, to remove all lumber from the excavation before you backfill.

In many parts of the country termites are a serious problem. Wet wood buried underground is a tasty morsel for these guys and when their done eating whatever is buried, they will move UP into the building above. Remove all wood, paper, tar buckets or other items that are not made of earth. You want a clean excavation when you start backfilling. I have failed more than one job over the years because the builder thought the open excavation was a landfill. The unknowing future homeowner inherits a potential problem and the builder saves on cleanup costs. Take the time to do it right. Tar bucket residue can weep into the soil and if you are on a private well, could contaminate your drinking water.

Closing

Footings are a critical part of any structure that is going to sit upon them. Take your time to get them located properly, set at the correct elevation and the rest of your work will become much easier to do.

As a purchaser of this e-book you are entitled to one months FREE email support for your project. I cannot offer structural information as that must be done by a licensed professional in the state you reside in but I can offer many tips and tricks or if you need additional information on a particular item regarding footings, feel free to email me and I will get right back to you as quickly as possible.

Every area of the country has its own design criteria for different kinds of footings. Warmer areas allow for the use of pre-made footing blocks available at big box stores. Your local building department will gladly advise you as to the minimum required depth of

footings in your area.

Pete

Your Friendly Building Inspector

http://www.Wagsys.com

BICES-Building Inspection & Code Enforcement System Software

Building Footings and How to Construct Them

Pete is a 30+ year building inspector with experience in both public and private construction industries. From schools to treatment plants, from private homes and condo projects, to large residential landscaping projects, he has worked both in the building design areas and field construction in the Eastern US. In 2006 he formed along with two other building inspectors, Wagsys LLC which produced software for municipal agencies in the fields of building departments, planning boards and Zoning Boards of Appeals.

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How To Make Money With Your Digital Camera

Not so long ago, taking photographs was a tedious process that included purchasing film, snapping a few photos and waiting a week for them to be developed. It was often disappointing to wait for a week just to learn that you missed that perfect photo by a few inches or forgot to turn the flash on.

However, modern technology stepped in and changed all of that. With the invention of the digital camera, photos became instantly viewable and there was no longer an excuse for missing that perfect picture. If the first photo didn't take properly, it was easy enough to simply try again. This resulted in a lot less money spent on wasted film and developing. Photos could still be developed from a digital camera, but many chose to store them on a computer or CD-Rom instead.

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These changes eventually paved the way for better income opportunities for both amateur and professional photographers. With no film being wasted and instantly being able to preview photos, it was much easier to snap that perfect picture. Whether it's a glistening waterfall, a national landmark or a deer trotting through an unspoiled trail, art enthusiasts are eager to own a unique portrait that has it's own individual story to share.

How To Make Money With Your Digital Camera

Using a digital camera, many professional photographers have updated their studios with instant previews and immediate printing direct from a photo quality printer. Amateur photographers are finding that their work is highly sought after on the internet, by magazine editors and newspaper publishers around the world. The internet opens a whole new world to freelancers and this includes the work of photographers. These days, if you want to sell a photograph, you had better be prepared to e-mail it. Many editors are looking for a fast turnaround and snail mail may not cut it, which is where a digital camera comes in handy. Their ability to quickly upload photos to a computer, a disk or as e-mail attachments has kept the digital camera in the spotlight. In addition to dealing with editors directly, many photos are successfully sold at online auctions.

When selecting a digital camera, it is important to consider the manufacturer's warranty, a quality zoom feature and storage memory. Most photographers also find that a view screen is very important in allowing them to review all photos stored in the camera card's memory. Another important aspect of any digital camera is the megapixel count. The greater the megapixel number, the better quality each photo will be.

How To Make Money With Your Digital Camera

To find out which digital camera [http://www.1-clik-shutter.com] is right for you, visit our website at [http://www.1-clik-shutter.com] . It contains tons of free digital photography articles, resources and tips.

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Looking at the Best Nikon Digital Camera Packages

When looking at what has to be, arguably one of the best makes of digital cameras, on the market today, I came across Nikon digital camera packages. Even if you are just thinking of getting yourself a decent digital camera, then a starter package has to be looked into. Not only will you be getting the camera itself, but you will also be purchasing all the other bits that you will want at a later date, the price of which will make you take a sharp intake of breath, as you add it all up individually.

Nobody has to want to become a serious photographer, to want these extras, which will undoubtedly make your life easier and more enjoyable when using the equipment.

Nikon

Take a look at Nikon digital camera packages like the Nikon D80 starter package, with the D80 digital camera itself, you also get a Nikon AF 18-55mm lens, wide angle lens, a 3 piece pro lens filter set, hi-speed USB card reader, 1GB SD memory card, lens cleaning kit, full size tripod, compact digital camera case and an LCD screen protector. All this is only 9.99, but this is a fraction of the price if you where to buy all those items separately.

Looking at the Best Nikon Digital Camera Packages

You may even be wondering what all these extras are, and I'm not sure on some of the specifics, but when you have it all in front of you and you get to grips with using the camera and experiment, it will all become clear and you'll be impressing friends and family, with your knowledge and skilled use of the equipment you have.

Some people get bogged down with to much technical stuff when buying digital cameras, things like, should they have loads of pixels or not? Well if your aim is to download the pictures onto your computer, then you're better of choosing something that will not clog up your computer's memory, but still has nice clarity on the computer screen. Also you should note that having a huge memory will not enhance the performance of your camera - it just means you can capture more images.

Now I'm getting technical and I am not exactly David Bailey (one of the most famous photographers in the world), but you do pick these things up, when mucking around with cameras.

As I said before, you can't really go wrong with a make like Nikon. Even the Nikon D40X, which is not quite as powerful, but not far off the D80, comes in exactly the same Nikon digital camera package, except for one thing, you get a tabletop tripod thrown in and that's only 7.99.

There are lots of Nikon Digital Camera Packages available and they are great value for money - well worth looking at if you want a digital camera, or any camera for that matter.

Looking at the Best Nikon Digital Camera Packages

I'd have kicked myself, if I had bought all my stuff separately, so don't make the mistake lots of others do. Look at the Nikon Digital Camera Packages at Buy Digital Photography

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Photography - Tips For Photographing Red Deer Stags Using a Digital Camera

Photographing red deer stags is one of those magical events in life. My good friend and I took up an opportunity recently to go and spend some time taking pictures of red deer in the wild. These deer make great subject matter for photography, but when rutting season is upon them the stags tend to take on a totally different personality.

Photography Tip - How to Photograph Large Wildlife and How Not To

SLR Digital

With any photography mission the challenge is always going to be to get as close to the subject matter as is (A) safe and (B) possible, (obviously without allowing yourself to get into any immediate danger) in some cases this is often achieved by using a telephoto zoom lens, but as is more often the case getting closer means clearer and more detailed pictures.

Photography - Tips For Photographing Red Deer Stags Using a Digital Camera

Always have your camera strap round your neck, this way if you have to suddenly take flight you will stand less chance of dropping it, but be sure if you do have to run that you place one hand on the camera otherwise you stand a good chance of it bashing you in the chin or worse.

The photo opportunity was a good one for us as we had bright sunshine and a warm day so we could use an 18 to 70mm wide angle lens with the camera settings left on automatic, though on reflection I wish I had been using my 28 to 200mm lens.

If you are photographing animals, great care should be taken to know the safety levels and whether they have times of the year that they are not approachable at all.

Red Deer Stags are majestic animals and clearly have enough power and energy to take on and defeat several humans at once if they so desired. Most of the year they would be happy for you to get up real close to take some great pictures, but when rutting season arrives you should certainly keep a safe distance between you and them.

Getting as close as we did to the Stags certainly set our heart racing as they fixed their glance at us and started scuffing the ground as if to charge, then swaying their antlers side to side while stabbing the ground with them. This was slightly unnerving, but a great opportunity to capture some great red deer pictures.

On more than one occasion we found ourselves a little more than uncomfortably close and ended up walking away exceptionally fast while trying not to run until at a safe enough distance to do so.

My biggest tip for photographing these great creatures is make sure it is not the rutting season or you could certainly end up with a lot more than a few good pictures as they do not tolerate any kind of friendly attention at this time.

Try to approach from downwind where possible this often gives a little edge and could secure some red deer pictures that you might not have managed had you not have done so. Wear camouflage clothing and carry as little as is possible. Try to have a little base set-up where you can leave the bulk of your equipment and possessions.

Photography - Tips For Photographing Red Deer Stags Using a Digital Camera

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Out of Memory at Line 11 Error Fix

Out of Memory at Line 11 error may occur while surfing the internet. It may occur due to various reasons like a recently installed update/ patch, corrupted internet history and cache and corrupted registry.

Let us go through the steps to resolve this problem:

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1. Restore the Computer before an Update is Installed
2. Fix the Problems found in your Registry
3. Increase the Size of Desktop Heap
4. Delete Internet History and Clear Browser Cache
5. Increase Virtual Memory

Out of Memory at Line 11 Error Fix

Restore the Computer before an Update is Installed

Out of Memory at Line 11 error may occur due to a recently installed Windows Update. An incomplete installation of the update may cause this error.

You have to restore your system to an earlier state before an update was installed. Do the below steps for doing so:

1. Click Start | All Programs | Accessories | System Tools | System Restore.
2. Click Next button.
3. Select a system restore point before an update was installed.
4. Click Next and follow the wizard your own.

Fix the Problems found in your Registry

Obsolete and outdated registry entries often result in Out of Memory at Line 11 error. You have to fix your registry first for solving this problem. Download a Registry Cleaner software and click Start Scan, and then Fix Now button.

Increase the Size of Desktop Heap

Heap is a data structure consisting of trees in which each node is greater than all its children. For fixing Out of Memory at Line 11, you have to increase the size of your Desktop Heap. Follow these instructions:

1. Click Start | Run.
2. Type RegEdit and press ENTER.
3. Navigate the below registry hive:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager\SubSystems
4. Double click the string called Windows.
5. You may see its value something like the following:
%SystemRoot%\system32\csrss.exe ObjectDirectory=\Windows SharedSection=1024,12288,512 Windows=On SubSystemType=Windows ServerDll=basesrv,1 ServerDll=winsrv:UserServerDllInitialization,3 ServerDll=winsrv:ConServerDllInitialization,2 ServerDll=sxssrv,4 ProfileControl=Off MaxRequestThreads=16
6. Increase the SharedSection parameter.
7. Close Registry Editor.

Note: To increase the SharedSection parameter, divide it into three parts, viz. X, Y and Z (In my case- 1024, 12288 and 512). Increase the value of the third-part (i.e. Z) to 256 or 512, if it is already less.

Delete Internet History and Clear Browser Cache

Corrupted Web history and corrupted browser cache may cause Out of Memory at Line 11 error. You have to delete the internet history and all the files in the web browser(s) you are using.

1. Download a PC Optimizer software that includes System Cleaner function.
2. Click Clean button to start deleting the checked items.

Otherwise use Internet Explorer as follows:

1. Open Internet Explorer.
2. Click Tools | Delete Browsing History.

Increase Virtual Memory

For fixing Out of Memory at Line 11 error, increase the size of virtual memory.

1. Right click My Computer.
2. Select Properties.
3. Click Advanced System Settings link.
4. Click Advanced tab.
5. Click Settings button under Performance frame.
6. Click Advanced tab.
7. Click Change button under Virtual Memory frame.
8. Increase the virtual memory.
9. Click OK | OK | OK.
10. Restart the computer if prompted.

Out of Memory at Line 11 Error Fix

The secure way to fix Out of Memory at Line 11 is fix the problems in your registry. Click here to download globally recognised RegInOut Registry Cleaner and fix the problem within few seconds.

Getting Out of Memory at Line 11 error? FIX it Here.

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